OK, so I'm writing this on the 26th in my room in Paris...in WORD. They forgot to set up my internet connection, and the place down the street won't let me use a credit card, and I can't get cash, since I can't get to the Internet to deal with some crap.
Anyway, Iceland ! Gorgeous. Definitely going back. Got in early the first day, caught the bus to the bus terminal, walked from their to the info desk to ask for a hotel. MAP & PHOTO You'd think that I had asked for contraband. She couldn't believe I didn't have a hotel. Found me a room at the Leifur Eíricksson
see my Flickr images for shots of the room
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which is opposite the Hallgrimskirkja Church, whose architect, Samúelsson (1870-1950), has done many buildings in town.
Here's what it's supposed to look like without the scaffolding.
images by Danny Zee (http://danny.oz.au/travel/iceland/architecture.html)
Finally found the place after getting turned around with the curvy streets.
Grabbed a bit of sleep before heading into town. Note the double flush toilet: low or high water depending on the need :) Falling in love with the language, which with its 'th' sounds resembles Castillian combined with something Slavic...of course it's neither but still. Figured out what it was reminding me of...this video, which is in Danish, so go figure.
Just took time to walk around--didn't want to try and squeeze into an excursion--money access started here. Thankfully everyone speaks English and takes Visa. I didn't use Kronurs once, and I have no change to bring back with me. Just went walking.
Just liked the garden on this one
Went down to the park along the bay.
Hung out at Kaffitar for a couple of hours having some good European coffee and some food.
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Went to the Culture House for to see some Medieval manuscripts--eddas and sagas--pleasant but a bit of a bummer, since it was only an exhibition of facsimile's and copies. I had asked about where tourists DON'T go :)
Decided to do some more walking and went through town to the Western side of the docks on Örfirisey.
Passed through the skateboarders in the little square in front of the Tourist Info bureau, where later there were bikers.
Also went around the top part of the Tjörnin.
I loved the little girl's head tube.
Also some cool water birds that hover--never saw one dive after a meal, but they worked methodically in 15-20 foot sections, checking the water out and then moving along.
All that walking brings about a thirst, so I stopped for a beer at Vegamót. Realized here that it's a bummer not to have cash, since I couldn't give the extra little tip with "service" being included in the bill. Thus there's no place to add anything on on the receipt
So when and where does he eat?! Knowing how much I like food, you can guess that I asked where I could get some good eats. Twice the place highlighted by Andrew Zimmern's show (link) was p'shawed, so I went with "the best seafood place in town." OK, so the girl at the tourist bureau had recommended the Sjávarkjallarinn or "Seafood Cellar" and given me a coupon for it. So I'm thinking that it probably wouldn't be that good...had to be some connection on the recommendation / coupon, and the woman at the hotel recommended it." I couldn't have been happier, wrote draft texts so I'd be able to later put the info here. The coupon was for a free glass of wine and an appetizer. Tried the Spanish wine by the glass, received a plate of sliced baguette on the diagonal of long, thin plate. In opposite corners were a ginger, passion fruit dressing and crushed peanuts with wasabi. Get the bread wet with the sauce and the nuts go crazy for it. All presented on a banana leaf. WOW !
I ordered the lobster (North Atlantic variety, so smaller and no claws, and you only eat the tail) appetizer and the lamb ribs for dinner. Because of the coupon, I first received a piece of salmon sushi topped with honey, anise and vinegar served on something like a poppadam. I'm so glad I came here !!
Then the real appetizer arrived. Imagine, if you will, the gastronomical twilight zone: finely chopped cauliflower on which are laid small lobster tails, topped with a truffle and all of this steamed in a foie gras reduction. It came in a little cannister--clamped lid--and that's how it was cooked. Yet another thing I've put on my list to have God make available in heaven. You should be drooling by now !!!! Then comes the rack of lamb chops, served on purréed potatoes and julienne zuchini. All of this topped with a mint and watercress salad. Two sauces came with this: good ole barbecue and a vanilla sour cream. Alone. Together. and/or both. Plate is two feet long and one half full. The other half's for the rib bones. Eat 'em, clean 'em and put them on the baked palm frond.
Finished with a doppo and asian crême brulée : served with vanilla ice cream and ginger shoots.
Had 6 different people serve me. I asked one waitress whose English was flawless, where I could hit a non touristy place for a beer, and she recommended Club Rosenberg, a club that locals like. Went and heard nary a word of English except in response to me (although I did say thank you in Icelandic--more on language later) and in songs. First guy had a nice voice, but every song sounded the same. This guy was great--played the yukelele and guitar, had a great voice and sang some interesting songs. Sat alone, smiled and laughed at the jokes that I couldn't even begin to understand, but I got to try Thule beer.
En route, I went back down to the bay and walked around more for some photos.
Note time...this is PM
